The MacBook had coffee spilt on it. I only turned it upside down and cleaned it with a rag. I finished a class I was logged on to and put it asleep thinking everything was ok. Got home and it would not power on. I'm just wondering if I can jump start it to rule out logic board issue. The board is different then your YouTube post where you point out the jump points.
Is it true the points are at the keyboard ribbon cable? Is the ribbon cable accessible without tools? Could it be under a small metal cage that is has the nintendo screws. Or is it not possible to jump start these newer unibodys. I don't really have time to do the keyboard replacement but it would be nice to know if it was a total loss.
A little history.. I did replace a key board and LCD screen in a 13 inch white MacBook a few years back for my girlfriend with a friends tool kit. I again have no tools and in a panic last night tried to remove the bottom of the MacBook pro with a knife and when it slipped I managed cut a peace if my thumb off. Boy that last screw. Looks like no stitches but is a cut. I'm lucky to have a thumb as the little pocket knife is vary sharp. Now that I think of it I could care less about the computer. Just looking at my thumb.
Hi! Sorry to hear about your thumb...you can get a nice little screwdriver kit at Home Depot or pretty much any hardware store for $10, so I'd really recommend picking one of those up, not only for your own safety, but because you're going to scratch up and devalue the computer by messing around with a knife.
If you have the early 2009 model, the pads are just to the left of the memory slots, and just to the left of a small pin that is between the two screws at the left end of the memory slots. They are fairly visible, and just left of this pin. If you have the 2010 version (I think this is what you have), it's in the same area, but about another inch further left, just left of a small orange cable, and just right of the screw in the bottom-left corner of the logic board.
It is recommended to disconnect the keyboard ribbon cable before jumping the board, because depending on the damage, the power button may be stuck in place and prevent jumping from occurring. You can always try it both ways. In the 2009 model, you're looking for an inch-wide ribbon cable very close to the right side of the memory slot, and in the 2010 model, it's under a metal grate in the same place that must be removed first. The cable can be disconnected by releasing the plastic clamp from both sides with a small flathead screwdriver, and then pulling the cable out once it is free.
Hi John. Well I have some tools to start this project up again. I am thinking I should take it all apart take off the board and maybe try cooking it in the oven after I buy a keybord on line or just wait...? Is it hard to find a board on for this computer? Say I replace the board and the keyboard is there a chance that something else could have been damaged from the coffee spill?
Little more history I did not turn the computer off after I spilled the coffee. I turned over the laptop and padded it with a rag and put it to sleep. Came home 6 hours latter and it would not power on.
Any way you were right looks like I have the 2010 model. I was not able to jump start the computer. I think the board is fried now but maybe I can now find out..... for sure? Would you describe the jump start pads as square, silver, and looking like a drop of solder or are they smaller round things that are also silver with a black dot in the center? To the far left of this stuff is a nintendo screw and above it are black and gray cables. I used a paper clip ( maybe not a good tool) to touch two of the pads but I am concerned the pads might pop off if I mess with them. Does it sound like I am doing this right? Should the laptop be plugged in when I do this because the green light is vary week on the jack? What If the battery is dead? I did get the orange cable disconnected after taking off the grate. If I can not get it jump started, what might I do next? I would like to take a look under the board and see what the liquid damage looks like.
If the light on the AC adapter is dim, it's most likely not going to power on in that state. You need a solid light on the AC before it will power on. Do you see any corrosion on the board? Look at it with a flashlight and see if you can spot any. You can clean it off with 90% rubbing alcohol and a soft toothbrush. Wait an hour after cleaning, then power on again. Yes, it does make sense to take the board out and clean the other side, especially if you don't see any on the bottom of the board. The dim AC light indicates the board probably has damage somewhere. It may also be on the DC-in (the connector that the AC adapter plugs into). Once you have a solid light, you can then start trying to power it on, and bridge the power-on pads.
If you're risking them "popping off" then you are applying too much pressure...it's only necessary to tough them lightly. A paperclip should be fine.
You should also test the RAM slots by powering on with one slot empty, and then with the other empty.
It's very likely you fried the board, because after the spill you did not shut it off, which most likely means it got fried. When you have a liquid spill, you should ALWAYS turn it off immediately, clean it up, let it dry, and then try powering on.
Okay the logic board looks good. After taking it out I found under it a nice even layer of dust. So I am fairly certain that no liquid dripped through the three layers of key board. I cleaned off the dust with a q-tip and alcohol. Not a good idea I should have used an old tooth brush because the q-tip tents to leave some cotton on the components. I will take your advice and retire a tooth brush and do it right before moving on.
After taking out the 50 small screws of the keyboard. I pulled out the keyboard and on the metal backing of it, I did found what appeared to be a little bit of cracking old liquid that was sticky to the touch. I decided to clean it off. On further examination I found a blemish .... It looks like a fried/ melted spot on the first layer of plastic that has (I'm guessing) inside of it the circuit of the keyboard.
John do you think that what I found is corrosion and the source of the problem? Maybe I could buy a keyboard for under 100 bucks and have a MacBook Pro again?
I also took out and cleaned up the dc connector because it was filthy. Other wise every thing is cleaned up. Just not sure what to do next.
Honestly, if jumping the board doesn't work, there's not much point in taking apart or replacing the keyboard. The whole point of jumping the board is to remove the keyboard from the equation and see if the board is functional at all. If you can't jump it, then a new keyboard is not going to help. It's like buying a new starter for your car when your engine is fried.
A better approach, like you mentioned, is to make sure the board is clean and free of corrosion. Dust can short out a board, so it's important to make sure you've cleared it away. Look at the board under a magnifying glass and with a flashlight. When the light on the AC adapter plug is dim, it's usually due to board damage, but to be 100% sure you might want to replace the DC-in. Also, try another AC adapter, and test your RAM slots by leaving one slot empty, and then the other slot empty. Often RAM slots are bad, and if you remove RAM from the offending slot, the computer functions normally.
But if you try all this and still have a dim light, and the machine won't start, you have a 99.9% chance of a bad board, and a new keyboard is definitely not going to help.
